General Information About: Assembly Instructions For: "AN" Thread Sizes
"AN" (Army-Navy) sizes were established by the Aerospace industry years ago
and were designated O.D. (outside diameter) of the rigid metal tube that
each size fitting is used with. (The following chart will clarify this point.)
The numbers assigned equate to the O.D. (outside diameters) of the tubing
in 1/16". Since tubing and hoses are to be found with assorted wall thicknesses,
we can now understand that the designated size number does not necessarily
tell you how large the inside diameter will be. (For example, the inside
diameter of an Earl's size 6 hose end is nearly as large as the inside diameter
of some other manufacturers' -8 hose ends.)
Each AN size number has its own standard thread size, which can be seen in
column three of the chart. Again, these are the same thread sizes that have
been used in aircraft and industrial applications for many years.
AN Size
|
Metal Tube O.D.
|
Thread Size
|
2
|
1/8
|
5/16-24 SAE
|
3
|
3/16
|
3/8-24 SAE
|
4
|
1/4
|
7/16-20 SAE
|
5
|
5/16
|
1/2-20 SAE
|
6
|
3/8
|
9/16-18 SAE
|
8
|
1/2
|
3/4-16 SAE
|
10
|
5/8
|
7/8-14 SAE
|
12
|
3/4
|
1-1/16-12 SAE
|
16
|
1"
|
1-5/16-12 SAE
|
20
|
1-1/4
|
1-5/8-12 SAE
|
24
|
1-1/2
|
1-7/8-12 SAE
|
28
|
1-3/4
|
2-1/4-12 SAE
|
32
|
2"
|
2-1/2-12 SAE
|
"NPT" Thread Sizes
Some of the most popular adapter fittings shown in our catalog are AN to
NPT adapters. While many variations are offered, column four in the following
chart shows which AN size corresponds to each NPT size when inside diameters
(flow dimensions) are considered.
All Earl's Swivel-Seal hose ends are designed to provide little or no restriction
when used with the corresponding AN fitting size.
We also offer a number of Metric and British Standard Pipe threads to AN
fitting adapters.
Pipe Thread Size
|
Threads Per Inch
|
Theoretical I.D. of Ftg.
|
Closest AN Ftg. Size
|
1/16"
|
27
|
1/16"
|
|
1/8"
|
27
|
1/8"
|
4
|
| 1/4" |
18
|
1/4"
|
6
|
3/8"
|
18
|
3/8"
|
8
|
1/2"
|
14
|
1/2"
|
10
|
3/4"
|
14
|
3/4"
|
12
|
1"
|
11–1/2
|
1"
|
16
|
1–1/4"
|
11–1/2
|
1–1/4"
|
20
|
1–1/2"
|
11–1/2
|
1–1/2"
|
24
|
2"
|
11–1/2
|
2"
|
32
|
Installation
While Earl's hose & hose ends make a pretty foolproof combination, there
are a few general rules to follow to make sure that you end up with a sanitary
and trouble free installation:
- Make sure that there is adequate clearance between the hose ends and
anything that they might be able to contact. While the hose is flexible ,
the hose ends are not!
- Do not allow the hose to contact a sharp corner, nut, bolt, rivet stem
or anything else that might cause damage. At any point where a hose passes
through a panel, install a grommet for chafe protection.
- Do not allow the hose to rub against anything - even if the surface
on which it rubs is flat. The stainless steel braid is a very efficient low
speed and will abrade through anything that it moves against . In order to
prevent chafing and to keep your hoses where you meant them too be support
the hoses every 18" or so with either a cushion clamp or ti-wrap.
- Do not force the hose into too tight a bend . Follow the minimum bend
radius chart. Do not kink the hose, either by to tight a bend, by misalignment
between the hose end and the part or adapteron short assemblies or by getting
the whole assembly into a helix on long assemblies. Align the hose ends with
the adapters so the hose is not placing a strain on the hose end or
on the adapter. The Swivel-Seal design reduces these problems, but only care
in installation will eliminate them. We manufacture enough hose end and adapter
configurations to allow a sanitary and sound solution to just about any installation
problem.
- Keep the hoses as far away from extreme heat sources ( like tubo chargers
and exhaust systems ) as possible. If you must run close to such things,
use an air gap insulating panel and / or fire resistant sheathing. Do not
run fuel lines in proximity of hot fluid lines ( or hot anything else ) or
you wil end up with either hot fuel and low power or vapor lock. Do not run
hot fluid lines near cool fluid lines or near to the driver.
- Do not overtighten the hose ends onto the adapter fittings or parts.
The seal is achieved by the design of the mating surfaces - not by muscle.
It helps a lot to use the wrenches made for the job.
Maintenance
Virtually no maintenance is required. Basically, maintaining Earl's high
performance plumbing hose ends is a question of preventing abuse.
- Inspect the plumbing installation frequently for signs of chafing,
abrasion, kinking, crushing or seepage.
- Take care not to crush, stretch, kink or otherwise damage the hose
assemblies when changing engines ect.
- Keep both hoses and fittings CLEAN.
(a) Before removing any hose end from its adapter or port, wash the assembly
down with solvent and blow it clean and dry so that no grit can find its
way into the threads or the sealing surfaces.
(b) As soon as the hose end has been removed, install a CLEAN protective
plug into the hose end and CLEAN cap onto the adapter. This will keep the
fluid off the floor, the machine and you.
(c) Always inspect both hose ends and adapters for dirt before reassembly.
(d) Correctly assembled Earl's hose ends will not leak if they, and the adapters
are undamaged, clean and properly tightened. The only way to be certain that
every hose is properly tightened is to form the habit of NEVER leaving the
adapter, hose end ( or anything else ) loose, finger tight or partially tightened.
Even when you know that you are going to take the thing right off again,
correctly tighten it - every time !
Leaks
It if leaks, it has probably been assembled incorrectly or the sealing surfaces
on the adapter and the nipple have been damaged—or just possibly someone
has attempted to assemble and AN 37° seat hose end into a 45° SAE cone. Damage
to the cone or the seat can be caused by a multiple of sins—dirt and over-tightening
being the most common.
Re-Use
All of Earl's removable hose ends are completely reusable as is the hose
and as are most of the competing brands. As usual, Earl's have an edge. When
disassembling a nipple and cutter type hose end, it is very common for the
inner tube of the liner, which is captured between the nipple and cutter,
to be torn off and to remain in place. If this happens, the rubber must be
removed before the hose end can be reused—and it is a bear to get out. With
Swivel-Seal the chances of this happening are greatly diminished, because
the cutter can rotate with respect to the nipple so that the rubber is faced
with only one moving surface. The procedure is as follows: Place the socket
in a vise, and with a wrench on the nipple and another on the cutter, hold
the nipple and turn the cutter until the socket is disengaged. Then pull
the hose off the nipple. This method will only work with the angled Swivel-Seals.
With the straight hose ends, you can either hold the socket in the vise and
turn the nipple, or you can remove the cutter from the nipple. All parts
of the Swivel-Seal are ready for reuse as soon as they have been cleaned
and relubricated.
How To Choose The Hose You Need
Perform-O-Flex
Top of the line stainless braid covered, stainless steel reinforced, synthetic
rubber hose for high performance and professional racing applications. Used
by CART, IRL, F-1, World Rally, NHRA, NASCAR and similar top caliber teams.
Similar to aircraft hose, extremely flexible, compatible with water, oil
and most standard high-octane fuels.
Auto-Flex
Great quality stainless braid covered, fabric braid reinforced synthetic
rubber hose with similar pressure and temperature ratings to Perform-O-Flex.
Recommended for appearance and street/strip performance applications. Suitable
for use with Econo-Fit clamp on hose ends
Speed-Flex
Teflon lined, stainless braid covered hose for use in brake and hydraulic
systems, air conditioning and fuel systems where exotic or corrosive fuels
are used. Much less flexible than synthetic rubber hose but withstands higher
pressures.
Power Steering
Steel and fabric braid reinforced high pressure hose designed for power steering
and hydraulic applications. Exterior color is blue.
Super Stock
Synthetic rubber hose with fabric braid reinforcement. Similar to Auto -
Flex hose without the stainless braid outer cover. Available in red, blue
or black.
How To Choose The Hose End You Need
Swivel Seal
The top of the line in hose ends for stainless braid covered, synthetic rubber
hose , using a cutter style method of attachment for maximum retention and
sealing. Key features include the adjustability after assembly, sometimes
necessary to allow correct hose end alignment, availability of forged, low
profile and male threaded hose ends. Recommended for use with Perform-O-Flex
or Auto-Flex.
Auto-Fit
A less costly, single nipple style hose end, non - adjustable, for use with
Auto-Flex or Perform-O-Flex Hose. Lower flow rates due to decreased i.d.
but more than suitable for most applications. Available through - 24 in aluminum.
Econ-O-Fit
Anodized aluminum hose clamp covers that look like a real hose end. Available
in red, blue or chrome.
Auto-Mate
A barbed hose end for Auto-Flex or Perform-O-Flex hose, available for use
with Econ-O-Fit clamp covers or in a crimp on version.
EZ-Fit
A push on hose end, available in steel and brass, for Super Stock hose.
Speed-Seal
Premium hose ends for Speed - Flex hose, designed for brake systems, hydraulics,
air conditioning and fuel systems.Available in zinc-plated steel.
Tube-Mate
Unique design to connect flexible hose to low pressure rigid tubing, without
welding. Maximum 25 PSI working pressure.
Temp-A-Cure Coolers
Temp-A-Cure Coolers perform best when mounted in the direct stream of air.
The air flow path through the cooler should not be blocked on either side.
Assembly Instructions
- Cut the hose to the required length.
a) Measure distance between ports or adapter fittings along the path that
the hose run will follow — allowing for bend radius, hose end length and
offset to obtain length and hose required.
b) Cut the hose square with a radiac wheel or a sharp 32 teeth per inch hacksaw
blade. It is necessary to wrap it tightly with electrical or masking tape
before cutting and to cut through the tape. This helps to prevent the stainless
wire braid from fraying.
c) Trim any frayed end of the braid with a sharp pair of metal snips or diagonal
cutters and remove the tape.
- Place the socket in a vise and insert the end of the hose into the
socket until the hose butts against the bottom of the threads provided for
the cutter. Gently pull the hose back until there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap
between the end of the hose and the bottom of socket — mark hose at bottom
of socket with a felt pen so that you can detect any tendency of the hose
to be pushed out as you complete the assembly.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose, the cutter threads and the socket
threads with Earl's assembly lube or engine oil. Place the nipple in a vise.
- Push the hose and the socket onto the nipple until the socket threads
can be started on the cutter. Start the threads and go as far as you can
by hand. Depending on the size of the hose, some force may be necessary in
this part of the operation.
- To complete the assembly it doesn't matter whether the nipple or the
socket is held in the vise. Holding one or the other in the vise and using
a suitable wrench on the other, tighten the socket onto the cutter threads
until the socket is within .060" of bottoming on the nipple. Do not use an
adjustable or over-size wrench or you will damage either the nipple or the
socket.
- Check the mark that you made on the hose in Step 2. If the hose has
backed more than about 1/16" out of the socket as you assembled it, curse
and return to Step 3.
- Clean the hose and the hose ends with Clean solvent.
- Pressure check the assembly before installation. Before letting the
assembly out of your sight, check the assembly by running the system at full
pressure while you observe the hose, hose ends, and adapters for leaks.
- Cut the hose to the required length.
a) Measure distance between ports or adapter fittings along the path that
the hose run will follow — allowing for bend radius, hose end length and
offset to obtain length and hose required.
b) Cut the hose square with a radiac wheel or a sharp 32 teeth per inch hacksaw
blade. It is necessary to wrap it tightly with electrical or masking tape
before cutting and to cut through the tape. This helps to prevent the stainless
wire braid from fraying.
c) Trim any frayed end of the braid with a sharp pair of metal snips or diagonal
cutters and remove the tape.
- Place the socket in a vise and insert the end of the hose into the
socket until the hose butts against the bottom of the threads. Gently pull
the hose back until there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the end of the hose
and the bottom of the socket — mark hose at bottom of socket with a
felt pen so that you can detect any tendency of the hose to be pushed out
as you complete the assembly.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose, the threads and the socket threads
with Earl's assembly lube or engine oil. Place the nipple in a vise.
- Push the hose and the socket onto the nipple until the socket threads
can be started on the nipple. Start the threads and go as far as you can
by hand. Depending on the size of the hose, some force may be necessary in
this part of the operation.
- To complete the assembly it doesn't matter whether the nipple or the
socket is held in the vise. Holding one or the other in the vise and using
a suitable wrench on the other, tighten the socket onto the cutter threads
until the socket is within .060" of bottoming on the nipple. Do not use an
adjustable or over-size wrench or you will damage either the nipple or the
socket.
- Check the mark that you made on the hose in Step 2. If the hose has
backed more than about 1/16" out of the socket as you assembled it, return
to Step 3.
- Clean the hose and the hose ends with Clean solvent.
- Pressure check the assembly before installation. Before letting the
assembly out of your sight, check the assembly by running the system at full
pressure while you observe the hose, hose ends, and adapters for leaks.
- Cut and de-burr the tubing. The cut must be square.
- Using the Tube-Mate grooving tool, groove the tubing. The tubing may
also be beaded (or barbed). See Earl's new tube beading tool.
- Push the tubing into the correct size Tube-Mate until it bottoms.
- Tighten the Tube-Mate nut.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
NOTE: Tube-Mate hose ends are designed to be used only with beaded, barbed
or grooved rigid tubing at no more than 25 psi working pressure.
- Cut the hose square with a radiac wheel or a fine tooth hacksaw. It
is necessary to wrap the hose tightly with masking or electrical tape and
to cut through the tape. This helps to prevent the stainless braid from fraying.
- Trim any frayed ends of the braid with sharp snips or diagonal cutters
and remove the tape.
- Slip the Econ-O-Fit collar over the end of the hose.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the Auto-Mate nipple.
- Push the Econ-O-Mate into the hose until it bottoms against the socket.
- Tighten the Econ-O-Fit hose clamp.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
- Cut the hose square with a radiac wheel or a fine tooth hacksaw. It
is necessary to wrap the hose tightly with masking or electrical tape and
to cut through the tape. This helps to prevent the stainless braid from fraying.
- Trim any frayed ends of the braid with sharp snips or diagonal cutters
and remove the tape.
- Slip the Auto-Crimp collar over the end of the hose.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the Econ-O-Mate
nipple.
- Place a suitable adapter fitting in a vise. Screw the Auto-Mate hose
end onto the adapter and tighten.
- Push the Auto-Mate hose end into the hose until it bottoms against
the collar.
- Place the Auto-Crimp tool approximately in the center of the collar.
Tighten the roller until it contacts the collar. Alternately turning the
handle and tightening the roller, crimp the collar until its diameter has
been reduced sufficiently to show the hose end barbs as ridges in the collar.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
- Cut the hose square with a sharp knife.
- Slip the aluminum collar over the hose.
- Mark the hose at the back of the collar.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the nipple. Use
assembly lube or engine oil. Do not use a silicon-based lube.
- Push the hose end into the hose until it bottoms.
- Check the mark made on the hose in Step 3 to ensure that the hose end
has indeed bottomed against the end of the hose.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
- Cut the hose square with a radiac wheel or a fine tooth hacksaw. It
is necessary to wrap the hose tightly with masking or electrical tape and
to cut through the tape. This helps to prevent the stainless braid from fraying.
- Trim any frayed ends of the braid with sharp snips or diagonal cutters
and remove the tape.
- Thread the socket over the end of the hose until it bottoms. NOTE:
Thread is left handed.
- Mark the hose at the back end of the socket.
- Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the nipple (including
the threads).
- Push the hose end into the hose and thread the nipple onto the hose
end as far as possible by hand.
- Clamp the nipple in a vise and tighten the hose end until it bottoms
against the nipple.
- Check the mark made on the hose in Step 3 to ensure that the hose did
not back out of the socket while tightening.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
Brake lines are critical items. The potential penalties for improper assembly
are severe. Although there is nothing complicated about the procedure and
no special tools are required, extreme care must be used in assembly. We
strongly recommend that the following procedures be used:
- Cut the hose to the required length. We recommend the use of a radiac
wheel, but it can be done satisfactorily with a 32 teeth per inch hacksaw
blade. In either case, the hose must be tightly wrapped with electrical masking
tape and the cut made through the tape. Do not cut Speed-Flex Hose with a
chisel, snips, pliers, or a shear, as these may crush the Teflon liner.
- De-burr the Teflon and trim any loose ends of braid with sharp snips
or diagonal cutting pliers.
- Install the socket on the hose with the threaded end of the socket
toward the cut end of the hose. This will be a lot easier, and you will end
up with fewer holes in your hand if you clamp the socket in a vise. Push
socket on well beyond end.
- Place the hex portion of the nipple in the vise. Insert the end of
the hose onto the nipple and bottom the hose against the chamfer seat of
the nipple with a rotary motion of the hose. This will size the I.D. of the
Teflon tube.
- Separate the braid from the O.D. of the Teflon tube. The best way is
to use Earl's special braid spreader tool (see Plumbing Accessories Section).
In the absence of the tool, separate the braid with a small screwdriver or
a scribe. Be careful not to scratch or nick the Teflon.
- Install the sleeve between the braid and the Teflon tube. Make sure
that none of the braid is trapped between the Teflon and the sleeve. Bottom
the tube against the shoulder of the sleeve and make sure that the sleeve
is inserted square.
- With the nipple held in the vise, push the hose and the sleeve onto
the nipple until the sleeve bottoms. Remove the hose and make sure that the
Teflon tube is still bottomed against the shoulder of the sleeve and that
the sleeve is still square.
- Push the hose and sleeve back onto the nipple and bottom against the
chamfer. Start the socket onto the nipple threads and hand tighten.
- Place the socket in the vise and complete the assembly by tightening
the nipple onto the socket with a wrench until the gap between the face of
the socket and the hex of the nipple is .023" to .046" — use a feeler gauge.
- Blow the assembly clean and pressure test before running the car.
- Establish required hose length and allow for hose ends. Add 1/2" for
trimming later.
- Tightly wrap the hose at the cut-off point with a single layer of masking
tape. Cut through the tape, Nomex braid and liner with a sharp knife. DO
NOT use a hacksaw or friction saw.
- Slide the socket over the end of the hose.
- Remove the masking tape.
- Slide Nomex braid back and thread the olive over the hose liner until
the liner protrudes slightly past the end of the olive. Using a sharp knife,
trim the liner flush with the end of the olive. This is very important. Make
sure that none of the braid is trapped between the olive and liner.
- Pull the braid up over the olive. Be certain that it does not protrude
past the edge of the olive. If it does, trim the sharp knife or scissors
to 1/4" behind the edge of the olive.
- Lubricate the male threads of the nipple with a light oil. Pull the
socket up over the olive as far as possible and start threading the nipple
into the socket by HAND.
- Hold the hose end body in a vise and tighten the socket until the socket
bottoms against the nipple hex.
- Pressure test all hose assemblies before use.
- Due to its extreme flexibility, convoluted hose tends to straighten
under pressure. Hose runs must be anchored on each side of every bend. Tie-wraps
and saddles or cushion clamps are suitable anchors.
- The features which make convoluted Teflon hose light in weight also
make it susceptible to abrasion and crushing. Care must be taken so that
hose does not come into contact with objects that might damage it.
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